Bold claim: sophomore collections are where a designer truly proves their vision—and Simone Bellotti is leaning into that pressure with a sharper, more personal take for Jil Sander. But here’s where it gets controversial: is growth really possible without sacrificing the brand’s core codes? Bellotti argues yes, and his forthcoming fall 2026 lineup suggests he’s aiming to push past minimalism toward a more expansive, tactile language.
Bellotti spoke with WWD ahead of the show, acknowledging that a second collection is inherently tougher. He explains that when you think a second outing might be easier, you’re already in trouble. The extra weight on his shoulders stems from expectations built around the debut—from critics, buyers, and fans who are eager to see whether the brand’s foundations will be confirmed or overturned.
This time, Bellotti has reframed the concept of “house” beyond the traditional codes. After the debut, he started contemplating the idea of the house as both the fashion brand and a physical home. The result is a study of ambivalence: a space that can feel like a sanctuary or a place that drives you to seek the outside world. While his first collection leaned into the brand’s graphic purity and restraint, the second collection leans into tension and exploration.
For fall 2026, Bellotti’s coed collection is described as more intimate and more daring. He uses interior-design fabrics and nods to his upbringing in upholstery, a nod to his father. The textures and volumes shift noticeably: expect more expansive silhouettes, a willingness to stretch proportions, and a move toward “more-ness”—an exploration of excess as a potential essence.
Specific ideas include wool coats with flowing back panels, elongated tailored pieces with longer tails, and millefeuille-like collars layering raw-hemmed fabrics over outerwear. Movement becomes a guiding principle, balancing structured pieces—like leather pencil skirts with flowing lines and velvet coats cut with airy slashes—with a sculptural softness seen in puff skirts that hang like curtains and jacquard padded short dresses recalling upholstered mattresses from Bellotti’s childhood.
Shoulder lines grow more pronounced and hourglass silhouettes reappear to enhance the interplay between body and garment. Bellotti asserts that Jil Sander sits on foundations of purity and sensuality: a brand long associated with austere elegance, yet capable of quiet, refined sensuality. He concedes there’s a learning curve in channeling that vibe across both menswear and womenswear, but he’s determined to reveal an elegant, understated sensuality that feels both modern and true to the house.
Inspiration extends to visual references: the stark black-and-white photography of Anders Petersen’s Café Lehmitz, which Bellotti uses to imagine the clothes as slightly distorted and “raw” rather than perfectly neat. This sensibility informs accessories too—suede pumps, boots, and totes with a lived-in feel, paired with more geometric and sleek pieces. Expect exaggerated platforms and satin or leather ballet flats in new colors, continuing the brand’s signature pointy lace-ups.
Bellotti also teases a two-sunglass designs collaboration with Oliver Peoples, featuring a distinctive J-shaped temple tip. He jokes that some details may be visible only to those who zoom in, underscoring his belief that true craftsmanship often hides in the micro—details that can be lost on a phone screen unless you’re viewing the collection up close.
The show’s presentation will extend beyond garments. A digital invitation features a moody video with Kim Gordon delivering a Chiara Barzini text centered on the home theme, while Bellotti collaborates with American musician Laurel Halo for the soundtrack. The Milan event will be staged at Jil Sander’s historic headquarters, with a redesigned, cozier atmosphere—brown carpeting replacing the usual stark white to evoke a homey sanctuary rather than a gallery space.
Controversial point to consider: Bellotti seems to be challenging perceptions of what a minimalist house can be, suggesting that restraint and excess can coexist in a single season. Do you think a house myth can sustain a modern menswear collection without losing its signature restraint? Share your thoughts in the comments.
Would you like a version tailored for a newsletter opener, a fashion blog, or a press-release style?
