Get ready for a fishy tale that will leave you questioning the boundaries of skincare!
The Salmon Sperm Facials: A New Trend?
In the world of aesthetics, it seems like we've left no stone unturned in our quest for youthful skin. And now, a new trend has emerged that's leaving people divided: facial injections derived from fish sperm. Yes, you read that right!
Imagine my surprise when I found myself interviewing Abby Warnes, a brave soul who volunteered to undergo this unique treatment. Lying on a plush black chair in a Manchester clinic, Abby endured the delicate insertion of a cannula into her cheek, exclaiming, "Ouch! Ouch!"
But here's the catch: Abby wasn't receiving a straight dose of trout sperm. Instead, tiny fragments of DNA, known as polynucleotides, extracted from trout or salmon sperm, were being injected into the lower part of her face.
The reason? Our DNA shares similarities with that of fish. So, the theory goes, Abby's skin cells will respond positively to these fish DNA strands, producing more collagen and elastin, two proteins crucial for maintaining skin integrity.
For Abby, the goal is to achieve fresher, healthier skin and reduce acne scarring and redness.
"I want to target those problem areas," she explains.
And she's not alone. Polynucleotides are being hailed as the next skincare "miracle," gaining rapid popularity thanks to celebrity endorsements. Charli XCX, with her nine million Instagram followers, declared, "Fillers are kind of over now," and shared her experience with polynucleotides, describing them as "kinda like deep vitamins."
Kim and Khloe Kardashian are also rumored fans, and Jennifer Aniston playfully hinted at her own "salmon skin" routine on Jimmy Kimmel Live.
But here's where it gets controversial...
Are polynucleotides truly transforming skincare, or is it just a fishy fad?
Suzanne Mansfield, from aesthetics company Dermafocus, calls it a "Benjamin Button moment," referring to the 2008 film where Brad Pitt's character ages backward, achieving baby-soft skin. While such an effect is unlikely, she believes polynucleotides are leading the way in regenerative skincare.
Small but growing research and clinical trials suggest that injecting polynucleotides can rejuvenate skin, making it healthier and potentially reducing fine lines, wrinkles, and scars.
"We're enhancing something the body already does," says Mansfield. "That's why these are so special."
However, this treatment comes at a cost. A single session can range from £200 to £500, and it's recommended to have three sessions over several weeks, with top-ups every six to nine months to maintain results.
Helena Dunk, the aesthetic nurse practitioner who owns Skin HD, where Abby received her treatment, says polynucleotides have gained massive popularity over the past 18 months.
"Half my clients notice a huge difference—their skin feels more hydrated, healthier, and younger—while the other half don't see such a big change. But their skin does tend to feel tighter and fresher," she explains.
Abby, who has already had the area under her eyes injected as part of a three-course treatment, is pleased with the results, despite describing the procedure as "pretty painful."
While studies suggest it's a safe and effective treatment, some experts warn that the hype might be outpacing the science.
Dr. John Pagliaro, a consultant dermatologist based in Brisbane, Australia, questions whether "injecting salmon DNA, cut into little pieces" into our faces will be as effective as our own nucleotides.
"We need more robust data," he says. "As a medical specialist, I'd want to see several years of large, credible studies showing safety and efficacy before incorporating it into my practice. We're not there yet."
Charlotte Bickley, a 31-year-old from New York, describes her experience with polynucleotides as "salmon-gate." She underwent the treatment as part of her "wedding glow-up" but ended up with a skin infection, inflammation, and darker rings under her eyes.
"I got the complete opposite of what I wanted," she says. "I trusted that doctor, but he's left me scarred."
Charlotte believes she was injected too deeply under her eyes, causing a negative reaction. While side effects like redness, swelling, and bruising are typically temporary, there are longer-term risks if polynucleotides are not injected properly, including skin pigmentation and infections.
Polynucleotides are widely used in the UK and are registered as medical devices with the Medicines Health and Regulatory Authority (MHRA), but they are not regulated like medicines. They have not been approved by the US equivalent, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA).
Ashton Collins, director of Save Face, an organization advocating for better regulation in the cosmetic industry, says polynucleotides are generally considered safe when administered by medically trained professionals and when reputable brands are used.
However, Collins warns, "We're seeing products enter the market that haven't been tested properly. That's the worry."
Dr. Sophie Shotter, president of the British College of Aesthetic Medicine, agrees, emphasizing the lack of regulation allows anyone to use products that haven't been rigorously tested.
When asked about the effectiveness of polynucleotides, Dr. Shotter says, "They're on my shelf, in my toolbox. I offer them to clients who want a natural look and are willing to invest long-term. But polynucleotides are not the only solution. There are other treatments with more data to back them up."
She adds, "There's no one-size-fits-all treatment. We all respond differently, and that's not always predictable."
So, is this fishy trend worth swimming into, or should we stick to more traditional skincare methods? The debate is open! What are your thoughts on these salmon sperm facials? Share your opinions in the comments below!
